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In a sunlit studio in Downtown Vancouver, a small team of artisans sits at workbenches and computer stations hard at work creating designs.
Surrounded by state-of-the-art equipment for modern jewelry-making tasks such as laser welding, 3D printing, computer numerical control (CNC) machining and polishing, the workshop has all the trappings of a well-established fine jewelry operation where one might expect traditional engagement rings, tennis bracelets and other classic adornments to come to life.
But, in this jewelry studio, everything is designed with a twist.
“The brand is my idea of modern, posh-punk,” Alex Jane, founder and designer behind the new brand Xander Jane, explains. “Like punk without the politics. Just the fashion part of it.”
Offering men’s, women’s and unisex designs, the line plays prominently with the punk motif of spikes, set against precious materials such as 18-karat gold, black diamonds and South Sea pearls.
“It’s kind of ironic,” Jane says of the contrast. “Punk is not supposed to be gold and diamonds. Punk is like steel and cheap metal and chain. As soon as you swap that and mix the two, you end up with something pretty sexy.”
Harbouring a business background rather than a formal education or experience in jewelry making or design, Jane is fuelled by an interest in fashion — and a desire to create a jewelry line that uses the best materials to create something that’s unexpected.
“Because you’re not supposed to do it. And that what makes it good,” Jane says of the unconventional creations and mash-up of materials. “We’re kind of unplugged here.”
Jane came up with the idea for the brand a few years ago, first trying to work with a local jewelry maker in order to bring his punk-inspired pieces to life. Not entirely happy with how the initial pieces turned out, he decided to take matters into his own hands, creating a workshop where the jewelry could be created from start-to-finish.
“I was kind of getting what I wanted, but not quite,” Jane recalls of the early pieces. “I realized I was never going to make stuff the way I wanted to make it, unless I did it myself.”
Over the next three years, Jane slowly assembled the machines and materials that were needed in order to make his brand a reality. It was a slow process of trial-and-error, he recalls.
“I would say, the hardest part is how little information people are willing to share with you in this industry,” Jane says of the biggest roadblocks he encountered during the creation of the studio. “Everyone’s got their own little secrets. And, you’re on your own. Nobody’s interested. You really have to figure it out yourself.”
Ramping up the design and production amid COVID-19, Jane, who is also the owner of the designer consignment store Modaselle in Vancouver, now employs a team of five people to bring the Xander Jane designs to life. The emphasis in the creation process, according to Jane, is quality and attention to detail. The entire jewelry-making process is done in-house, from design to mixing of metals, to final completion.
“Otherwise, the tone wouldn’t come through properly,” Jane explains of the all-in approach to the jewelry creation. “It’s the only way it could be done right.”
Titled Spiked, the 2023 collection features earrings, rings, bracelets and more, ranging in price from $600 for ceramic and gold stud earrings to $8,400 for a Spiked Rose Gold Black Ceramic Necklace XL. The pieces are available through the brand’s ecommerce store.
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Building the brand solely through word-of-mouth, he’s always excited to see the creations out in the world. Beyond that, Jane admits he hasn’t thought too far into the future — “I would like to … get some celebrities wearing it in the future,” he says — but is open to the idea of exploring aspects of growth such as wholesaling.
For now, he’s having too much fun perfecting the pieces with his team at work in the Xander Jane workshop.
“I was really just trying to figure out how to make it,” he says with a smile. “I thought, ‘I’ll just figure out how to make it first. And then see if anyone wants it — later.’ ”
Five more Vancouver jewelry brands to know:
The brand: Zaleska Jewelry
Size inclusivity is an essential element of the designs from Zaleska Jewelry. The company offers rings in Sizes 4-to-13 and custom-cut necklaces to ensure there’s a size for every body.
The brand: True Curated Designs
From custom engagement rings to cool collections, True Curated Designs offers fine jewelry finds that are inspired by travel and adventure.
The brand: Pamela Card Jewelry
Inspired by artifacts and antiquities viewed in museums around the world, Pamela Card offers heirloom designs that pull inspiration from jewelry designs dating from Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman art.
The brand: Welleree
Using materials such as 14-karat gold and diamonds, Welleree offers simple statement pieces designed to be worn and loved for a lifetime.
The brand: Kara Yoo
Kara Yoo offers cool, modern pieces that are designed and almost entirely manufactured in the brand’s Vancouver studio. Each piece is said to be created with the ethos of being everyday jewelry that “is made to wear.”
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