Imagine constructing a citadel and visiting it solely as soon as. That's the destiny that befell Thomas, the second Earl of Lancaster, within the case of Dunstanburgh Citadel on the Northumberland coast. He was executed when he was in his mid-40s, the 12 months that the citadel was accomplished – precisely 700 years in the past – after he’d led a drive of highly effective barons in an rebellion towards his cousin Edward II.
On his retreat to Dunstanburgh, he fought the Battle of Boroughbridge in North Yorkshire, misplaced, was taken prisoner and beheaded.
I attend an occasion to commemorate the 700th anniversary, and am keen to seek out out extra concerning the man, so head north for a go searching his citadel.
I’m the one passenger on the bus from Craster to Beadnell. As soon as within the seaside village I verify a “what’s on in Beadnell” board. It's clean, however I've lots to occupy myself on a hike down the coast from bay to bay. The primary homes I move, a few of them artwork deco, are all straining for a view of the ocean. I go to the positioning of the Thirteenth-century St Ebba’s Chapel, now fully buried. It, too, as soon as loved a broad vista however, in widespread with present-day properties, now simply overlooks the rocky foreshore. The coastal views actually are available to their very own simply across the headland at Beadnell Bay, the place the tops of the sand dunes – reasonably than first-floor image home windows – present the very best vantage factors.
My beginning publish is three giant, stone-built limekilns courting again to 1798. The silhouetted ruins of Dunstanburgh Citadel, practically my ending publish, appear a good distance away however on a day like right this moment I’m not involved. It’s the primary day of spring, the solar is shining and there’s not a cloud within the sky. The low tide has planed the sands to a sheen. All I can hear is the distant rumble of waves, the trickle of a burn and the skidding of paws as a canine involves a halt to select up a ball.
Not like the canine, I don’t need to get my ft moist so come up briefly from the seaside to cross the burn by way of a footbridge. I might stick with the England Coast Path, however as a substitute strike out throughout the dunes to discover. What I feel from a distance is an previous fishing boat is a big log, whereas a cabin is utilized by a ranger, reasonably than the wizened fisherman of my creativeness.
The following seaside is known as Soccer Gap due to a flat piece of grass behind it the place the sport was as soon as performed. Simply after the seaside a courtyard of fishers’ cottages round a inexperienced at Low Newton-by-the-Sea is an sudden delight and ideal spot for a midway relaxation. What’s extra, there’s a pub in a single nook, the Ship, which boasts its personal brewery. I drink my pint on the grass as all the skin tables are taken. The pub is stuffed with individuals holding a glass in a single hand and a canine lead within the different.
Mounds of glistening spume wobble within the breeze as I proceed alongside Embleton Bay, which has clapboard homes on the dunes at one finish and, on the different, lots of evenly formed and rounded black boulders. Simply behind them is a second world warfare pillbox. I squeeze inside and peer out to sea by way of the seven tiny home windows. Now, lastly looming above, is that different, better-known defence, Dunstanburgh Citadel.
The citadel is transfixing and maybe all of the extra spectacular from a distance. Crowning an outcrop of the Nice Whin Sill, which additionally underpins components of Hadrian’s Wall, the ruins are all about context. Up shut, yellow gorse supplies a splash of color to this austere prospect.
Seemingly a dreadful show-off, and with a really giant chip on his shoulder, the second Earl of Lancaster fancied himself as a King Arthur determine and Dunstanburgh as his Camelot. It's nearly a large folly, because it served little sensible function and noticed battle solely briefly, throughout the Wars of the Roses.
The view from the highest of the gatehouse takes in nearly my total route. As I stroll the final mile or so, I preserve turning round for a final have a look at the citadel – though by now my ideas are turning to dinner on the Jolly Fisherman.
I discover Craster clouded with the smoke that billows out of the roof of L Robson & Sons kipper smokehouse. Synonymous with the village, herring fishing from its harbour ceased within the Nineteen Seventies due to depleted shares and an eventual ban. They've since recovered however the fishermen catch different species today and Craster’s herring now come from Norway. Carried out up like a kipper? Nicely, somewhat maybe, however the smokehouse dates again to 1836 and I wasn’t too bothered about provenance. Both manner the kippers offered a high quality breakfast the next morning – and a right away reminder of a grand day trip.
Begin: Beadnell
Distance: 7¾ miles
Time: 3½ hours
Whole ascent: 35 metres
Problem: Straightforward
Google map of the route
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The pub
The Jolly Fisherman, established as a pub in 1847 having been constructed as a cottage, has been family-run since 2011. It's well-known domestically for its seafood, most of which is sourced from North Shields, though the lobsters come straight from Craster harbour when obtainable, which is about 3 times every week, totalling about 70 lobsters in summer season.
Fishermen carry them from their boats as much as the pub. The lobster salad comes with truffle mayo, beef dripping chips and both thermidor or marie rose sauce (£26 for a half lobster, £47 for an entire). Different specialities embody crab soup and crab sandwiches made to a secret recipe handed down from the earlier two landlords.
thejollyfishermancraster.co.uk
The place to remain
There may be not numerous lodging close by. Alnwick, seven miles away, has a better option. The EveAnna B&B has been beneath new possession since 2019 and is cosy, trendy and comfy. It’s a part of a terrace inbuilt 1930 as a lodge for passengers arriving on the station subsequent door, though it was by no means used for this function and was subsequently divided into three homes. The station closed in 1968 and now homes the city’s well-known secondhand bookshop, Barter Books.
Doubles from £100 B&B, eveannaleisure.co.uk
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