Mendacity again on the grass, I exhaled for what appeared like the primary time in 18 months. I used to be miles away from civilisation and a world away from the lengthy days of solo lockdown in my London flat.
Now I used to be alone once more, however in happier circumstances. I might hear faraway sheep and really feel a mild breeze as I gazed on the Lake District countryside and sky. I used to be a couple of days into strolling from Cumbria’s Irish Sea shores to the North Sea on the Coast to Coast, a community of paths created by fell-walker and author Alfred Wainwright, and it was absolute bliss.
It was September 2021 and whereas the world was slowly getting again to “regular”, mine had imploded 4 months earlier when my mum died after a brief sickness. At her funeral the vicar and my uncle talked about my mum’s gritty willpower and resilience. It was entrenched in me, too, however the previous 18 months had taken its toll: was the combat nonetheless there? Time to search out out.
The Coast to Coast wasn’t my first long-distance path – but it surely’s to not be underestimated. Over 12 days I crawled up formidable mountains, scrambled down rockfaces, scaled drystone partitions, soaked my drained ft in ice-cold streams, negotiated bogs and mires, and tried to face my worry of cows (they’ve been identified to kill hikers, you understand).
I saved strolling. The Coast to Coast is formally 192 miles lengthy, and my itinerary was bold, averaging about 16 miles a day, with no relaxation days. Admittedly, I wasn’t carrying all my gear, or tenting – my suitcase was by itself journey from resort to resort. All I needed to do was put one foot in entrance of the opposite and preserve going.
Whereas at occasions my hike was solo, contemplative and an opportunity to consider my mum; at others it was a riotous jolly jaunt of English eccentricity, the comradeship of fellow hikers and the kindness of strangers.
I used to be midway between St Bees and Ennerdale Bridge on the primary day once I noticed a plastic bag with my title on, hanging on a gate: “For Emma Lunn and bear. Have an awesome journey.” The bear was my trusty travelling companion, Arnie, a teddy my nephew had given me a decade earlier.
The bag contained quite a lot of sugary snacks and had been left by a sort native in response to an introductory publish I’d written on the Coast to Coast Fb group the earlier evening. My gratitude was captured on movie by the Stockton Ramblers – a vivacious trio of fellow hikers I usually fell into tempo with alongside the best way, who have been making a video weblog of their journey.
I wanted the sugar hit the next day once I opted for the “excessive route” from Ennerdale Bridge to Seatoller. My calves have been on hearth in the course of the relentless climb to the 755-metre Crimson Pike, throughout which I entered a semi-meditative state the place I’d depend 100 painful steps earlier than permitting myself to cease for a breather, verify my GPS, then repeat. With sheep paths crossing my uphill route and the summit shrouded in mist, the going was robust and navigation troublesome.
Crimson Pike was phenomenal and well worth the exertion. The clouds cleared moments after I collapsed, dog-tired, but exhilarated, on the summit. It was the primary time I’d reached a spot that gave me a way of the sheer scale of the Lake District, with Derwentwater, Crummock Water and Ennerdale Water, and others, all in view.
From the highest of Crimson Pike begins one thing of a traditional Lake District ridge ramble to the summits of Excessive Stile and Haystacks. My GPS failed as I scrambled up and over rocks and slid down scree-covered slopes, aimlessly making an attempt to get again on something resembling a path whereas my water provides ran low within the hovering warmth.
The Coast to Coast delivered common doses of euphoria, every time I conquered a summit, survived a harmful ascent, handed by way of a subject of cows with out incident, or just survived one other day. Regardless of a good stage of health, generally I might barely stand by the point I reached my B&B or resort.
I bought fortunate with the climate. It solely rained for about half-hour throughout my whole journey. However whereas I lamented not packing sufficient summer time garments, some walkers allotted of garments altogether.
I used to be on the summit of Kidsty Pike, at 780 metres, when my fellow hikers and I collectively averted our eyes as a middle-aged man carrying nothing however mountaineering boots and a backpack strolled as much as the summit. The jury was out on whether or not it was the notorious Bare Rambler (former marine Stephen Gough), or only a random hiker who discovered the warmth an excessive amount of.
Regardless of being the most well-liked long-distance path within the UK, the Coast to Coast is neither a chosen nationwide path nor signposted. The normal route mapped out by Wainwright winds by way of three of England’s most beautiful nationwide parks. Historically walked west to east, it begins at St Bees, close to Whitehaven, earlier than traversing the dramatic mountains and valleys of the Lake District, the rolling fields of the Yorkshire Dales, and the grim but exceptional North York Moors. It ends on the picturesque fishing village of Robin Hood’s Bay.
Some hikers carry all their gear, and camp; a mad minority run it in record-breaking makes an attempt. Others pootle fortunately from pub to pub over 15 or 16 days, taking a number of relaxation days. I paid Mac’s Adventures to deal with the logistics, with evening stops various from the swanky Glaramara Home Resort in Borrowdale and walkers’ retreat New Ing Lodge in Shap, to a room above the Arncliffe Arms in Glaisdale.
Custom dictates that anybody embarking on the Coast to Coast stroll begins by dipping a toe within the Irish Sea at St Bees and selecting a pebble to throw within the North Sea at Robin Hood’s Bay.
I allotted of my pebble earlier than I checked in to Lee-Aspect, an enthralling B&B in Robin Hood’s Bay with simply 4 rooms (from £60 single). A girl about my age and her mum checked in similtaneously me, and the B&B house owners greeted us with espresso and cake. I couldn’t assist however really feel envious that the opposite lady’s mum was nonetheless together with her – then I remembered that my mum had been with me too, each step of the best way.
Coast to Coast have to know
Coaching
Relying in your itinerary, you’ll be strolling 13 to 16 miles a day, for as much as 10 hours, usually uphill. To coach you must practise strolling this distance on consecutive days. Should you plan to hold all of your gear, you must take it in your coaching walks too. Mountaineering poles are advisable – your knees will thanks.
Provisions
Walkers ought to take adequate meals and water every day. Some days you’ll move by way of villages with retailers and pubs, however on others you is perhaps depending on “honesty bins” at farms and church buildings the place you might be anticipated to go away the suitable cash in alternate for snacks and drinks.
Packages
Macs Adventures can design tailored self-guided journeys for solo walkers, couples and teams, with relaxation days as required. Costs begin from £1,149 an individual for 12 nights, and embody lodging, GPS routes, baggage switch and taxis, if lodging is off the route. Different corporations providing self-guided Coast to Coast itineraries embody Mickledore and Contours Holidays. If you wish to ebook your personal lodging, Sherpavan and Packhorse each provide day by day baggage transfers. Campers might want to ebook at designated campsites – wild tenting isn’t allowed.
Public transport
As a result of the route takes you from one facet of England to the opposite, one of the simplest ways to journey is by public transport. You may get a prepare to St Bees from London, by way of Carlisle. Robin Hood’s Bay doesn’t have a prepare station, so that you’ll have to get a bus to Whitby or Scarborough for rail connections. Should you drive, Packhorse provides safe automobile parking in Kirkby Stephen (about midway) and provides transfers to St Bees and again from Robin Hood’s Bay.
Security
Solo walkers ought to all the time let a good friend or member of the family know the route they intend to take every day and roughly how lengthy it is going to take. GPS navigation is straightforward to comply with however reliant in your cellphone – take a map and compass for back-up and be sure you know learn how to use it. Cease and chat to another hikers you meet. Not solely is it good to be sociable, however in case you go lacking folks you’ve spoken to usually tend to bear in mind what time and the place they noticed you. Pack an emergency foil blanket – these are low cost and light-weight and may preserve you heat if it's a must to spend the evening outdoors. Lastly, know your limits. Should you’ve by no means climbed a mountain earlier than, it’s greatest to do it with another person earlier than you try a summit alone.
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