In the center months of the pandemic, once we might exit, however not far, I stored assembly the identical individuals in well-spaced queues, and saying the identical issues. “We’re nice, however climbing the partitions,” “Zoom”, “sorry”, “masks”, “canine”. I additionally discovered myself speaking about events.
At first, it was queue-chat about having individuals over. However, because the months went on, I discovered myself having more and more detailed chats and ideas about events. Remembered, made-up, nostalgic home events; kitchens full of individuals and baths filled with ice, vertical conversations on staircases, purple wine on carpets, sofas pushed again to create space for dancing (ideas all of the extra idealised as a result of, if a celebration is made up, there isn't any probability of not being invited).
In September 2020, I spent a night with a pal planning a celebration we couldn’t have. How we might make jugs of iced negroni, and serve Messina beer and five-litre packing containers of wine. For the meals, we imagined large bowls of a knobbly cheese snack known as Fonzies, little milk buns stuffed with salami, olives the dimensions of small plums, fried cheese and trays of pizza, which, for the sake of this column, can be pissadella with anchovy diamonds.
Also called sardenaira, piscalandrea or pizza alla Ligure, pissadellais a part of a household of anchovy-onion-tomato-olive-topped flatbreads typical of Liguria (and of Good in France, which has a tomato-less model known as pissaladière, and a reminder of shifting borders and customary cooking). Some variations are unleavened, whereas others embody yeast, although to date I’ve had extra success with yeasted recipes. I additionally desire those who recommend including the anchovies after baking, versus placing them in with the tomato sauce – I miss the forcefulness of a fillet.
It was the Roman prepare dinner and trainer Carla Tomasi who taught me to knead dough with oiled palms on a calmly oiled floor. Years later, I nonetheless say, “Hail, Carla”, each time. Not solely does it assist handle stickiness, it additionally means you aren't incorporating extra flour, which is what occurs once you knead on a floured floor. Although many individuals say that it’s an pointless step with fashionable yeasts, I nonetheless, stubbornly, activate (which feels like a Nineties aerobics exercise): that's, 25g contemporary or 10g dried yeast combined in a cup with 75ml heat milk and 20g flour and left for 10 minutes, so it begins to bubble. However be at liberty to depart that stage out.
Whereas you may make pissadella prematurely and serve it at room temperature, itis greatest served scorching from the oven. It is going to appear a faff to unfold the anchovy fillets out on a plate and reduce them in half in preparation for the lattice, however belief me, attempting to get them out of the jar is hard after a negroni, and you possibly can effectively be distracted by the doorbell or by somebody shifting the couch.
Pissadella – tomato, anchovy, onion and olive tart
Prep 30 min
Rise 1 hr 30 min
Prepare dinner 60 min
Serves Many
20g contemporary or 10g dried yeast
75ml milk, warmed
500g plain flour
10 tbsp olive oil
Salt
2 onions, peeled and sliced into half-moons
1 garlic clove, unpeeled and bashed, however left complete
800g ripe tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped (or 2 x 400g tins, drained)
Dried oregano
12 anchovy fillets
Black olives
Combine the yeast, heat milk and a spoonful of flour in a cup and go away for 10 minutes, so the yeast prompts and begins to bubble.
In a big bowl, combine the yeast combination with the remainder of the flour, 4 tablespoons of olive oil, an excellent pinch of salt and sufficient heat water to make a comfortable, barely sticky dough. Rub a worktop with oil and plop the dough on prime, then use oiled palms to fold and knead gently – it ought to be comfortable and a bit difficult to deal with, however the oil will assist. Wash, dry and rub the bowl with oil, then return the dough to it for an hour to rise.
In the meantime, heat the remaining oil in a frying pan, then gently fry the onion and garlic till the onion is comfortable and translucent. Add the tomatoes and prepare dinner till they're comfortable and their water has evaporated.
Oil a big baking tray, drop within the dough, use oiled fingers to unfold and dimple it into place – it ought to be about 1cm thick throughout – then go away to rise for an additional half-hour. Unfold tomatoes excessive and bake at 200C (180C fan)/390F/gasoline 6 for 40-60 minutes.
In the meantime, reduce the anchovies in half lengthways. When the bottom comes out of the oven, make a diagonal lattice sample with the anchovies and put an olive in the course of every diamond.
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