Hidden Spain: where to stay and what to do off the beaten track

A lot of us have been fairly shocked to find how a lot we like being in nature and all that outdoorsy stuff over the previous couple of years. In fact, all of us nonetheless love our metropolis breaks – nothing like an exhilarating weekend in Madrid, Barcelona or Valencia to pep us up – however Spain can be actually good for getting away from all of it, whether or not within the mountains, an unspoiled stretch of coast or in a village you simply occur to come back throughout on a street journey. The Spanish love rural tourism and there are attractive small lodges and self-catering locations all around the nation.

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Rías Altas, Lugo province, Galicia

Those that like correct seashores – the form of lengthy stretches of golden sand backed by cliffs and fields that you simply discover in Devon, Cornwall and the Gower peninsula – will really feel proper at residence within the Rías Altas. That is the north coast of Galicia, between the city of Ribadeo on the border with Asturias and Cape Ortegal, a distance of about 75 miles. It appears longer, although, due to the estuaries that kind a crinkly seaboard alongside the Bay of Biscay. Shallower than the extra fjord-like inlets of the Rías Baixas within the south-west of Galicia, the Rías Altas shelter a string of seaside cities that morph into makeshift resorts in summer season.

Whereas having a automotive or campervan permits the liberty to discover, quite a lot of the realm will be seen by hopping on and off the little trains on the Feve narrow-gauge railway that run alongside Spain’s north coast. There are about 30 stations on the Rías Altas part and it could take two hours to journey the size of it in a single go, however it could be straightforward to dawdle away a couple of weeks getting off wherever takes your fancy – the views from the practice are sometimes spectacular. A month’s go prices €88.90 for limitless journey (bikes will be taken on board at no cost, too).

Viveiro: a great place to stop off for octopus and Galician wines.
Viveiro: an amazing place to cease off for octopus and Galician wines. Photograph: M Ramirez/Alamy

On the japanese finish of the Rías Altas, Playa de las Catedrales is essentially the most well-known – and photographed – seaside, with rocks forming arches and caves which are solely accessible at low tide. Heading west, you come to the Ría de Viveiro, an inlet formed like a teardrop. Cease off within the historic city of Viveiro to take a seat exterior conventional bars, devouring plates of octopus and Galician wines.

On the western finish of the coast is the Ría de Ortigueira, the most important inlet within the Rías Altas. The Ortigueira pageant, a famend celebration of Celtic music, takes place from 10-17 July in 2022. Acts embody Tanxugueiras, a feminine vocal trio who put a recent spin on conventional Galician people music.

The place to remain

Semáforo de Bares hotel
Semáforo de Bares lodge. Photograph: Luis Dafos/Alamy

West of Viveiro, the Estaca de Bares headland is the northernmost level of Spain and residential to the Semáforo de Bares lodge (doubles from €80) in a former navy maritime station. Or keep in a hamlet close to Ortigueira, in a characterful if primary cottage that sleeps 4 in three bedrooms (from €74 an evening).

The Matarraña, Teruel province, Aragón

Valderrobres: a labyrinth of cobbled lanes
Valderrobres: ‘a labyrinth of cobbled lanes’. Photograph: Gabor Kovacs/Alamy

It’s potential to spend months exploring the huge area of Aragón, which stays stubbornly off the mainstream tourism radar. Certainly one of my favorite elements is the Matarraña, within the south-east nook of the area within the province of Teruel, 90 minutes’ drive from the seashores of the Costa Daurada – although it feels prefer it takes ages to get right here from anyplace.

Vineyards and olive and almond groves cowl the panorama of rolling hills, that are peppered with attractive medieval villages of honey-coloured stone. Sounds a bit like Tuscany? You wouldn’t be the primary to suppose so.

Valderrobres
‘There aren't any scarcity of picturesque places in Valderrobres.’ Photograph: ChaviNandez/Alamy

Valderrobres, on the banks of the Matarraña river, is the principle city, with a labyrinth of cobbled lanes topped by a 14th-century fortress. A few gothic church buildings, a Renaissance city corridor and a medieval bridge imply there isn't any scarcity of picturesque selfie places.

This can be a fairly, arty form of space, and the hilltop village of Calaceite has loads of galleries and artists’ studios. The village is residence to fairly a couple of writers, too, following the precedent set by the Chilean creator José Donoso, who settled in right here within the Seventies and was visited by Gabriel García Márquez and different Latin American literary figures. Simply exterior Calaceite, go to the Mas de Flandi olive mill to walk by way of the olive groves and style the natural oils.

For many who fancy a leisurely bike trip, the Vía Verde Val de Zafán is an previous railway line that passes by way of Valderrobres and leads all the way down to the market city of Tortosa. There are some nice swimming spots, too, resembling El Salt de la Portellada, the place the Tastavins river cascades down the rocks to kind a pool.

The place to remain

La Torre del Visco near Fuentespalda, Spain
La Torre del Visco

La Torre del Visco (doubles from €325) could also be dear but it surely’s a fantastically restored Fifteenth-century mansion in an idyllic riverside spot close to Fuentespalda. It was one of many first luxurious rural lodges in Spain when it was opened almost three many years in the past by British couple Piers and Jemma Markham, who had been working in publishing in Madrid. With an natural method to meals lengthy earlier than it grew to become trendy, the restaurant is among the greatest within the space. Within the coronary heart of Calaceite, the Cresol (doubles from €127) oozes rustic stylish and has six rooms named after olive varieties.

Valle del Ambroz, Cáceres province, Extremadura

La Chorrera waterfall in Valle del Ambroz
La Chorrera waterfall in Valle del Ambroz. Photograph: Alf/Getty Photos

Within the north of the Extremadura area in western Spain, the Valle del Ambroz is a bucolic, sparsely populated space with an abundance of beech and birch forests and many wild swimming spots. Cherry and plum orchards flourish on the terraced hillsides and peppers develop within the meadows. Whereas it's off the radar of most overseas vacationers, it's widespread with the Spanish, who head west from Madrid, north from Seville and south from Salamanca for a blast of rural bliss and lengthy lunches in village squares.

The Ambroz River kinds pure swimming pools within the villages of Casas del Monte and Abadía – for these cautious of untamed swimming, these are good entry-level choices for actually taking the plunge. Subsequent to the swimming pools in Casas del Monte is the shady terrace at Aurora Boreal for platters of Extremaduran ham and cheese, do-it-yourself croquettes, lamb chops and salad.

Hervas, Caceres.
Hervás, Caceres. Photograph: Jose Miguel Sanchez/Alamy

Hervás, under Pinajarro mountain, has one of many best-preserved Jewish quarters in Spain. Slim, winding lanes flanked by homes with rickety picket balconies lead as much as a Templar fortress on the prime of the little city. Set up your self within the porticoed Plaza de la Corredera and take a look at a couple of of the native specialities in one of many conventional taverns. Plenty of dishes are flavoured with the pimentón paprika made within the adjoining and equally interesting La Vera valley. Attempt zorongollo (peppers withpimentón and garlic), morcilla sausage with pumpkin and escabeche de patatas (fried potato slices with a punchy vinegar dressing). Order the native pitarra pink wine, aged in earthenware vats.

Stroll from Hervás to Cascada de la Chorrera, a waterfall near the supply of the Ambroz River, or to the village of Gargantilla alongside a path lined with chestnut and holm oak timber.

The place to remain
Hospedería Valle del Ambroz (doubles from €169 B&B plus dinner) in Hervás occupies a revamped Seventeenth-century Trinitarian convent and has an outside pool surrounded by gardens. The Parador de Plasencia (doubles from €122 B&B), within the coronary heart of the medieval city and simply south of the Valle del Ambroz, is ideally located for exploring the La Vera and Jerte Valleys, Las Hurdes and the Sierra de Gata, in addition to the Monfragüe nationwide park. Top-of-the-line-designed paradors, the constructing dates again to the Fifteenth century and was initially a monastery.

Costa Trasmiera, Cantabria

Playa de Berria, near Argonos.
Playa de Berria, close to Argonos. Photograph: Robin Weaver/Alamy

Whereas Santander has a string of beautiful city seashores, head east and also you instantly come to a surprisingly rural stretch of shoreline. The Costa Trasmiera, widespread with Spanish holidaymakers, stretches for 30 miles from the Cantabrian capital to the fishing city of Santoña – the place there are quayside canning factories to go to and see the very best anchovies you’ll ever style being filleted at lightning velocity by nimble-fingered staff.

When you arrive in Santander on the automotive ferry from Plymouth or Portsmouth you’ll quickly depart the town behind and be driving by way of open countryside with just some cows for firm. Half an hour away is Langre seaside, the place a crescent of limestone cliffs frames a bay of pale golden sand.

Langre beach
Langre seaside. Photograph: David Crespo/Getty Photos

Noja is the principle vacation city in Trasmiera, with a few dozen lodges and many bars and eating places. It’s not precisely charming however there are 4 very good seashores to select from, together with Ris the place eerie rock formations punctuate the sand. Your subsequent swim needs to be at Berria, the place two kilometres of glittering sand are bookended by rocky headlands. Whoever thought this was simply the spot to construct a large ugly jail will need to have been on mind-altering substances, however simply attempt to ignore it.

Look as an alternative past the seaside to the character reserve shaped by the Santoña, Victoria and Joyel marshes. That is crucial wetland space in northern Spain and attracts migrating wading birds from autumn to spring, significantly spoonbills, curlew sandpipers and avocets. A part of the reserve is designated because the Trasmiera ecopark, a sustainable tourism undertaking with a number of remark factors and customer centres, together with the restored Santa Olaja mill, the place you'll be able to see how the pressure of the tides was historically harnessed to grind wheat.

The place to remain

Casa de las Marismas, Escalante, Spain
Casa de las Marismas

The three-bedroomed Casa de las Marismas (from £790 every week) is within the village of Escalante by the Marismas de Santoña wetlands and three miles from Berria seaside, which is accessible by way of a cycle path in addition to by street. There are a number of campsites alongside the coast, together with Playa Joyel (pitches from €98 every week, two-bedroom lodges from €448 every week), which has a pool and children’ membership and is correct subsequent to Ris seaside in Noj.

Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas pure park, Andalucía

Segura de la Sierra
Segura de la Sierra. Photograph: Japhotos/Alamy

Within the underrated province of Jaén, within the north-east nook of Andalucía, this mountainous nature reserve is the largest protected space in Spain and an idyll for birdwatchers, cyclists and walkers. Olive, cork oak and Aleppo and Austrian pine timber carpet the hillsides and valleys, that are residence to ibex, wild boar and deer.

You would possibly spot a golden eagle, Egyptian vulture or perhaps a lammergeier right here. The mighty Guadalquivir River rises within the Cañadas de las Fuentes, and flows throughout Andalucía for 400 miles till it reaches the Atlantic at Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

The hub of the realm is the small city of Cazorla, which was voted Spain’s capital of rural tourism for 2022, in recognition of its efforts to advertise sustainable holidays in pure environment. Within the north of the reserve, which will get far fewer vacationers, the fortress appears to merge into the rock within the village of Segura de la Sierra.

Baeza has Unesco world heritage status.
Baeza has Unesco world heritage standing. Photograph: Ventura Carmona/Getty Photos

Bus companies solely hyperlink the principle locations within the area so, ideally, take a automotive. On the best way, cease off within the extraordinary cities of Úbeda and Baeza, the place the wealth of Renaissance buildings has gained each of them Unesco world heritage standing. It's potential to handle with out your individual transport, nonetheless. Arrange base in Cazorla and observe strolling and biking trails from there, such because the GR 247 Forests of the South, the longest round route in Spain.

The place to remain
The Parador de Cazorla (doubles from €113 B&B) is fashionable however in-built conventional Andalucían fashion. In a stunning location within the hills, there are sweeping views of the encompassing countryside to be loved whereas mendacity by the out of doors pool.

The Puente de las Herrerías campsite (cabins from €54 an evening for 2 individuals) has pitches for tents, caravans and motorhomes, in addition to cabins and chalets. The location additionally has a pool and presents actions together with ziplining, treetop challenges and mountain climbing.

Somiedo pure park, Asturias

Lake La Cueva.
Lake La Cueva, within the park’s south-east. Photograph: Svetlana Zhukova/Alamy

There are only a few locations in Europe the place brown bears roam freely, however in late spring or summer season it’s simply potential to identify a couple of ambling round this lush mountainous space in Asturias, northern Spain. Set up a base within the village of Pola de Somiedo and discover out extra concerning the undertaking to guard the inhabitants of about 280 Cantabrian bears on the Fundación Oso Pardo info centre. To maximise probabilities of seeing them, enterprise out with the guides at Somiedo Expertise.

A mother brown bear with her cub in the Asturias.
A mom brown bear along with her cub within the Asturias. Photograph: Arturo de Frias/Alamy

Spectacular glacial lakes, limestone peaks and beech forests outline this alpine panorama, which is a Unesco biosphere reserve. Spanning 5 valleys, Somiedo is residence to wolves, chamois, golden and booted eagles, and griffon vultures. Thatched stone shepherds’ huts, often called teitos, dot the hillsides, that are coated in flowers from Might to September.

It's potential to get right here from the UK with out flying or driving on the ferry to Santander, taking a practice to Oviedo after which a bus all the way down to Pola de Somiedo. You'll be able to set off on walks or bike rides from the village itself and join different actions as soon as there. Mix mountaineering with mindfulness and meditation on a retreat with Strolling in Spirit (from £650 for 2 sharing an house) led by therapist Frankie Sikes.

The place to remain

Hotel Palacio Florez-Estrada, Pola de Somiedo, Spain
Lodge Palacio Flórez-Estrada, Pola de Somiedo.

The Palacio Flórez-Estrada (doubles from €65) – elements of which date again to the Fifteenth century – in Pola de Somiedo has 9 cosy rooms (no televisions) in the principle home and 4 one-bedroom residences within the former stables. The household who run it make everybody really feel at residence. Surrounded by lush gardens, with a pool, playground, tennis courtroom, natural vegetable plot and a stream tinkling alongside, that is an idyllic spot for switching off. It typically runs cultural occasions in addition to birdwatching excursions and different actions.

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