Those of you who suppose Portuguese wine is all about off-dry rosé and cheap-as-chips, fizzy vinho verde may be stunned to listen to that the current Wines of Portugal tasting was one of the thrilling I’ve been to this 12 months. Barring Italy, nowhere rivals Portugal for individuality and the sheer quantity and number of its indigenous grapes. And when you want additional proof, take a dip into the wine checklist at Nuno Mendes’ superb new restaurant Lisboeta or head for Tobacco Dock in east London this weekend for a devoted Portuguese meals and wine competition referred to as Festa, which has been masterminded by the wonderful Bar Douro.
You would possibly assume that reds can be Portugal’s strongest swimsuit, however I discover the nation’s whites equally compelling. In case you’re not acquainted with them, I’d begin with alvarinho, Portugal’s reply to Spain’s albariño from simply over the border. Or, within the extra basic vinho verde fashion, strive the immensely refreshing Cascata 2020 (£11.99, or £10.49 when you combine 12, Laithwaites, 11.5%), which is a mix of loureiro, arinto, trajadura and avesso (see what I imply in regards to the varieties?).
The white wines of the Dão and Douro areas are typically richer and extra textured – suppose oaked white rioja or the whites of the Rhône for comparability. A great instance is Somontes Branco 2021 (£11.95 Davy’s, 13%), a wine I’d fortunately drink with grilled pork or the native salt cod.
Douro reds are typically constituted of the identical grapes as port – that's, varieties corresponding to touriga nacional, tinta barroca and tinta roriz – and make equally wealthy, brambly wines. The usual of grocery store own-label purple douro is especially excessive, and the brand new Cubicles bottling in immediately’s choose is a very good instance. You’ll additionally discover lighter, extra progressive kinds such because the scrumptious Niepoort Primata Natcool, which is just 11%. For extra supple, Italianate reds, in the meantime, look to the Alentejo.
The opposite factor Portugal has going for it's qualité/prix, because the French name it. Not that each one the wines are cheap, however they do are typically higher worth than comparable wines from elsewhere. Aldi, specifically, has some actual bargains for the time being, a few of which I’ve touched on earlier than, together with Mimo Moutinho Arinto Vinho Verde 2021 (£5.29, 11.5%) and the Specifically Chosen Douro Reserva 2019 (£6.79, 13.5%).
Actually, I had much more problem than common in proscribing my suggestions to 5 this week, so take the chance to strive them while you discover them by the glass.
5 Portuguese wines to find
Style the Distinction Portuguese Alvarinho 2021£7 Sainsbury’s, 13%. In case you’re an albariño fan, you’ll love this extremely good-value Portuguese model. One for chargrilled squid and different seafood.
EH Sales space & Co Douro Purple 2019 £11 Cubicles, 13.5%. Outstandingly good, own-label purple. Clean and velvety: best for roast beef or steak.
Herdade de São Miguel Tinto Colheita Seleccionada 2020£12.95 Cheers in Swansea, £13.29 Butlers Wine Cellar, 14%. A simple-drinking mix of bordeaux varieties with native touriga nacional. Good for grilled lamb.
Niepoort Primata Natcool £18 (1 litre) Wanderlust, 11%. Not what you’d typically count on from the Douro, this scrumptious, gentle, summery purple is brimming with purple berry fruit. Might be flippantly chilled.
Churchill’s Estates Grafite Purple 2019£16.50 Festa Wine (Bar Douro’s wine store), 14%. Actually elegant Portuguese purple constituted of tinta roriz, Portugal’s identify for tempranillo. Scrumptious now, however you may fortunately hold on to it for 2 or three years. Appears a bit good for the pairings of pizza and burgers they recommend; I’d perhaps go for a gourmand burger as an alternative.
For extra by Fiona Beckett, go to matchingfoodandwine.com
This text was edited on 25 June 2022. Because it was submitted, Bar Douro has modified the identify of its wine store to Festa Wines, in addition to the area identify of its web site.
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