Since the temperature ranged from 9C to 29C on my latest break within the UK, I’m not going to be silly sufficient to foretell what the climate goes to be like in the beginning of September, however in concept it needs to be beginning to really feel autumnal. And, to my thoughts, that prompts a change in consuming.
I do know a lot of you gaily keep on swigging rosé proper by way of the winter, and there stands out as the odd day once I do, too, however I’m undoubtedly within the temper to return to reds. And since recreation and mushrooms are again on the menu, that requires pinot noir.
At one time, that might have mechanically meant burgundy, however different wine areas and international locations at the moment are doing it so nicely, you’re prone to discover higher worth elsewhere. Whether or not that will likely be precisely what you need is one other matter. For those who’re attracted by the delicacy and silkiness of an excellent burgundy, you could not recognize the exuberant, upfront fruit of a Chilean or New Zealand pinot, however when you discover burgundy a bit weedy, they could be simply what you’re in search of. As normal with wine, it will depend on your private style and, particularly with burgundy, how deep your pockets are.
It stays a wrestle to discover a good bottle for lower than a tenner, although I’m completely satisfied to say I've discovered two, the Naudin Père et Fils in at present’s decide being a specific winner for lovers of a extra basic model. Romanian pinot is far more of an outlier: wealthy, brambly, borderline candy, however extremely good worth. It’s the type of wine I’d drink with a cheeseboard, and particularly with blue cheese.
In fact, pinot, like different wines, is being affected by local weather change, which is leading to riper wines. That’s undoubtedly to the benefit of extra marginal climates for purple wine resembling Alsace and, surprisingly, England, whose pinots get higher and higher, if not cheaper. Danbury Ridge and Gusbourne are two names to look out for. And Germany’s spätburgunders – the title they provide to pinot noir – might be beautiful. Who would have thought, 10 years in the past, that we’d have been raving about German reds?
Most good pinot noir just isn't low-cost, so it’s value looking for particular gives, particularly on New Zealand pinots, that are extra extensively stocked by supermarkets. Tesco’s Californian Estancia, whereas moderately priced, has been cheaper this summer season, as an example, and could be so once more.
And, in case you have the room, tuck some away for future consuming. Pinot ages seductively when you’re into these truffley, autumnal flavours that go so nicely with recreation.
5 pinots that hit the spot
Naudin Père et Fils Pinot Noir 2020£10.99 (or £8.99 on “mix-six”) Majestic, 13%. Good, elegant, Burgundian-style pinot constructed from grapes grown outdoors the area.
Incanta Pinot Noir 2020/21£7.99 (or £6.49 on “mix-six”) Majestic, 12.5%. A darker, richer, sweeter model of pinot from Romania. Would go brilliantly with blue cheese and recent figs.
Estancia Pinot Noir 2018£14 Tesco, 13.5%. Surprisingly reasonably priced Californian pinot with trademark pinot silkiness.
Schweigen Spätburgunder Weingut Becker 2018£26 The Wine Society, 13.5%. Sensationally sensuous German pinot that knocks spots off numerous purple burgundy.
Astrolabe Pinot Noir 2018£18.99 Waitrose Cellar, 13.5%. Beautiful, lush, sweet-fruited pinot from Marlborough, New Zealand, that even lovers of fuller-bodied reds ought to get pleasure from.
For extra by Fiona Beckett, go to fionabeckett.substack.com
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