The catwalk with a difference: adaptive fashion comes to Azerbaijan

Zinyet Veliyeva took her first journey down the catwalk on the age of 48, wearing a light-weight blue shirt and darkish trousers. Hasan, her eight-year-old son, pushed her wheelchair.

“I watched movies from earlier reveals,” says Veliyeva. “Many of the fashions had been slim and I mentioned to myself why not have one thick mannequin.”

When she was nonetheless at college, Veliyeva had a stroke that led to paraparesis, the partial lack of motion within the legs. She turned Azerbaijan’s first paralympic feminine athlete, qualifying for the 2012 London Paralympics in archery.

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A typical situation

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The human toll of non-communicable illnesses (NCDs) is large and rising. These sicknesses finish the lives of roughly 41 million of the 56 million individuals who die yearly – and three quarters of them are within the creating world.

NCDs are merely that; in contrast to, say, a virus, you possibly can’t catch them. As a substitute, they're attributable to a mix of genetic, physiological, environmental and behavioural elements. The principle varieties are cancers, persistent respiratory sicknesses, diabetes and heart problems – coronary heart assaults and stroke. Roughly 80% are preventable, and all are on the rise, spreading inexorably all over the world as ageing populations and existence pushed by financial progress and urbanisation make being unhealthy a world phenomenon.

NCDs, as soon as seen as sicknesses of the rich, now have a grip on the poor. Illness, incapacity and loss of life are completely designed to create and widen inequality – and being poor makes it much less probably you can be identified precisely or handled.

Funding in tackling these widespread and persistent situations that kill 71% of us is extremely low, whereas the price to households, economies and communities is staggeringly excessive.

In low-income nations NCDs – usually gradual and debilitating sicknesses – are seeing a fraction of the cash wanted being invested or donated. Consideration stays targeted on the threats from communicable illnesses, but most cancers loss of life charges have lengthy sped previous the loss of life toll from malaria, TB and HIV/Aids mixed.

'A typical situation' is a brand new Guardian sequence reporting on NCDs within the creating world: their prevalence, the options, the causes and penalties, telling the tales of individuals dwelling with these sicknesses.

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She loves jumpsuits, T-shirts and trousers – the extra vibrant the higher – however can’t pull them on and off simply as a result of they don’t have zippers and buttons within the locations she wants them.

In the course of the summer season, Veliyeva was considered one of 20 fashions who took half within the Kekalove adaptive vogue present on the Marriott Absheron resort in Baku.

Mahammad Kekalov, right, with Zinyet Veliyeva and her husband, Galib Aliyev, in their Baku apartment.
Trend pupil, Mahammad Kekalov, proper, with mannequin Zinyet Veliyeva and her husband, Galib Aliyev, of their Baku house.

Female and male fashions with varied disabilities took to the catwalk, on their very own or with help, in entrance of a packed viewers.

The present was the concept of Mahammad Kekalov, a 21-year-old pupil. Months earlier than, he had visited Veliyeva and her husband, Galib Aliyev, at their residence together with his enterprise companion Rashada Aliyeva, the primary adaptive garments designer in Azerbaijan.

Aliyev additionally has a incapacity, having misplaced a leg when he stepped on a land mine throughout the first of two wars between Azerbaijan and neighbouring Armenia previously 30 years. The conflicts resulted in a whole bunch of amputees.

Jamila Mammadli has her hair and makeup touched up before heading on to the catwalk.
One of many fashions, Jamila Mammadli, has her hair and make-up achieved backstage.

Aliyev had typically thought there should be a greater solution to gown: “I assumed it will be extra handy to take off and put on garments along with the prosthetic limb,” he says.

Aliyeva and Kekalov talked to Aliyev and created garments primarily based on what he mentioned. Aliyev then examined the creations and gave suggestions on what labored and what didn’t.

Kekalov was impressed to begin the enterprise by his late grandmother, Salimat Kekalova. She was visually impaired, so getting dressed may very well be a problem. Coupled with a yr spent with an American household who taken care of disabled youngsters, he was pushed to think about adaptive garments as an answer.

“As with my grandma, I see the identical within the folks we work with. We ask them in the event that they need assistance or have any points with clothes. They are saying they don’t, however we discover out they've issues with getting dressed. They're so used to it, they don’t see it as an issue however an on a regular basis actuality.”

That is one cause he organises catwalk reveals – he has now achieved three – he believes those that carry out really feel extra assured about their our bodies. “They transfer away from physique stigma and that's the fundamental cause why we do it,” he says.

The primary two reveals occurred final yr. The primary value $13,000 (£15,500), paid for by the US embassy in Azerbaijan; by the second, Kekalov was promoting the idea, encouraging corporations to purchase sponsorship to indicate solidarity with folks with disabilities.

Rahim Rzayev, 36, was on the catwalk in a turquoise Hawaiian shirt and huge white trousers with buttons on either side. Like Veliyeva, he had adopted the present on social media: “He who doesn't take dangers, positive factors nothing,” he says.

Mahammad Kekalov helps Rahim Rzayev try on a hoodie created for people with disabilities by designer Rashada Aliyeva.
Kekalov helps Rahim Rzayev strive on a hoodie created for folks with disabilities by designer Rashada Aliyeva, left.

Rzayev, who not too long ago obtained married and can quickly be a father, has had a extreme type of scoliosis since he was six, he has a curvature in his backbone and a twisted bone in his proper leg.

His education was restricted to a few weekly residence visits from a instructor. He now earns a dwelling by promoting hand-crafted merchandise however struggles to search out garments: “After I put on trousers, the waist is small and tight. If the waist is true, the hem is just too lengthy.”

Rzayev persuaded his good friend Khayyam Rahimov to carry out with him within the present. Rahimov has anaemia and his legs are completely different lengths; beforehand he had coated his uneven garments with a heavy jacket.

Spectators watch models with disabilities on the catwalk wearing tailored-made adaptive clothes.
Spectators watch fashions with disabilities on the catwalk carrying tailored adaptive garments.

The garments Kekalov makes vary in worth from £130 to £215, placing them past the attain of many Azerbaijanis, the place the common month-to-month wage is about £420. The workforce due to this fact offers their garments to the fashions for nothing.

However Kekalov says the present should be financially viable. “Our plan is to have a provide chain to promote merchandise in western nations, for instance Germany, the place there's a confirmed observe of adaptive vogue manufacturers.”

Kekalov can be contacting representatives and vogue designers in Georgia, Turkey and Uzbekistan, nations with “related incapacity ecosystems”. The workforce plans to stage a sequence of reveals this yr in every of those nations, utilizing disabled fashions.

“It is going to assist us higher perceive how vogue can bridge incapacity and geographical cultural features,” says Kekalov.

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