Tom Ford has closed New York vogue week with a set that doubled down on the singular perception that has underpinned his whole profession: few issues promote garments fairly like intercourse.
9 months after cancelling his final present on account of a Covid outbreak at his atelier, New York’s arch-provocateur turned a former buying and selling flooring simply past the World Commerce Middle right into a full-on disco assault. Hemlines have been excessive, but someway the heels have been even greater. Excellent news for followers of Ford glamorama; dangerous information for anybody hoping to put on the stuff.
It was a present cut up in three: seems for the daytime, seems for the celebration, and appears for the after-party. It started with Ford’s model of sportswear – if disco shorts in black and silver the width of belts, or low-slung tracksuits in lilac lamé, could possibly be thought of marathon-friendly. These have been adopted by a contemporary tackle the Ford twinset of pencil skirt and plunging-neck shirt, a memento of his beloved 70s-style which made him so successful at Gucci within the 90s.
Then got here fits, flared and enjoyable in candy-coloured metallics worn with little or no else, and a quick interlude by which 5 fashions received to showcase his new line of knickers – or reasonably, scrims of lace. There have been variations for him and variations for her.
The ultimate part was extra Oscars pleasant, with the Hadid sisters closing the present in showstopper jewel-sequin robes paired with sequined earrings the dimensions of croissants. Menswear was minimal, though a Barbie-pink go well with took first prize for pink carpet wearability. The temper was high-glamour, Studio 54 repurposed for Gen Z, soundtracked by Robert Palmer and Useless or Alive. Hair was crimped, exaggerated, and sky excessive.
Few designers are pushed by conspicuous luxurious fairly like Tom Ford – each at his personal label, which he launched with simply menswear in 2006, and through his radical makeover at Gucci, when he repurposed Halstonesque robes, plunging necklines and the idea of cutouts on garments for the 90s.
Now not “that man from Texas” by the point he left Gucci in 2004, he has since grow to be one of the crucial in-demand designers. In 2019, he grew to become chair of the Council of Trend Designers of America (he just lately stepped down), a tenure that overlapped virtually solely with the pandemic. His label was valued at $3bn, in keeping with Enterprise of Trend.
In what has been an in any other case various and sustainable vogue week in New York, Tom Ford’s present was noticeably missing in physique range. Plus-sized fashions Paloma Elsesser, Devyn Garcia and Valuable Lee have been on nearly each different catwalk besides this one.
Nonetheless, Ford’s potential to monetise excessive intercourse enchantment means his followers know what to anticipate. He has grow to be as well-known because the folks he clothes (Brad Pitt, Jay-Z and Keira Knightley are loyal to his model) and his after-show bow, for which he wore one in every of his sharply tailor-made fits, prompted a frenzy of whoops.
If the gathering was meant to shock, it labored. If it was meant to amuse, it did that, too. And the entrance row, which included the singer Madonna, actor Katie Holmes and a uncommon look by comic Chris Rock, someway managed to look each shocked and amused.
Post a Comment