Sustainable wine is an exciting, exploding category. Here are five great bottles to try

“The greatest threat to our planet is the belief someone else will save it,” said environmentalist Robert Swan. And he nailed it. We prioritize the planet when we buy goods from places that practise sustainability. That includes wine.

Sustainable winemaking is a huge trend that has exploded in the past several years, with more and more wineries turning to that approach. Sustainability is a broad term that can capture all sorts of practices in the winery, vineyard and beyond — such as minimizing the use of chemical pesticides and herbicides, investing in community in various ways and aiming to be carbon neutral across the wine value chain. But its goal is always to preserve and support the planet.

Today, the LCBO carries hundreds of labels by sustainable wineries. So it’s easier than ever to support such producers, which is unequivocally a good thing. But just because they’re sustainable doesn’t mean they’re tasty — pure-fruited, balanced and all the rest.

Here are five bottles you can feel good about because they’re delicious and all made sustainably.

2019 Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet-Merlot, VQA Short Hills Bench (Vintages, winery $47.95)

From Ontario, the 2019 Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet-Merlot, VQA Short Hills Bench (Vintages, winery $47.95) is a gorgeous blend of old-vine Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It draws you in with its heady, dark perfume. Aromas of poached blackberries, dried currants and black cherries dunked in dark chocolate emerge from the glass, laced with mint, cigar box and crushed stone. Then a lively attack of red-fruited freshness juxtaposes the brawny nose and lends a juicy, drinkability to this long, layered red. Score: 91

Henry of Pelham is one of 24 wineries in the province now “Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario Certified.” Look for that certification logo on bottles. Other regions around the world offer their own sustainability accreditations.

2022 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc from the Cape Coast of South Africa (Vintages $23.95)

The 2022 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc from the Cape Coast of South Africa (Vintages $23.95) is certified sustainable — and well worth snapping up. Made from fruit grown just two kilometres from the cold South Atlantic Ocean, it fills the glass with the scent of ocean air. Each swirl releases the fragrance of sea spray and wet stones followed by a zippy fresh and linear attack. A tightly wound centre uncoils with vigorous flavours of pithy grapefruit, taut lime and that ocean air character found on the nose. Just a delightful wine that makes you feel like you’re standing right there by the shore. Long. Score: 93

This wine is named after the endangered Southern Right Whale that visits Walker Bay between May and December each year. With every bottle sold, the winery contributes to the whales’ conservation or conservation in the area.

2022 Babich Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand (LCBO $19.95)

In the more fruit-forward certified-sustainable 2022 Babich Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand (LCBO $19.95), you’ll find classic, jump-out-of-the-glass fragrances of pineapple, gooseberries and cut grass followed by a bracing attack that echoes everything found on the nose. A long, lemony finish completes each sip of this sassy Sauvignon Blanc. Score: 90

2021 Gérard Bertrand Domaine de L’Aigle Chardonnay from Limoux, France (Vintages $38.95)

Winemaker Gérard Bertrand from the Languedoc region of France famously champions planet-friendly winemaking. And his 2021 Gérard Bertrand Domaine de L’Aigle Chardonnay from Limoux, France (Vintages $38.95) just hit shelves in Ontario. The wine captivates the senses with caramelized peaches, butter pastry and almond paste aromas. Then it slides in seamlessly and saturates the palate with dry, full-bodied, deep-fruited goodness. Shifting allusions of sliced peach, mixed citrus, praline and nougat draw the attention before a long stony salinity emerges and lingers. Score: 94

Of course, some wineries toil away quietly practising sustainable viticulture without claiming certification on the bottle.

2018 Edouard Delaunay Bourgogne Côte-d’Or Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges (Online at LCBO.com $37.95)

One such winery is Maison Edouard Delaunay of Burgundy, France, which produces marvellous wines from the prestigious Côte d’Or. An undervalued gem of a wine is the 2018 Edouard Delaunay Bourgogne Côte-d’Or Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges (Online at LCBO.com $37.95).

Those familiar with the Nuits-Saint-Georges commune of Burgundy will recognize this wine to be a textbook expression and total charmer. Youthful scents of strawberries and prune scored with underbrush and game flutter with elegance and approachability. The entry is all poise and verticality with well-toned flesh and perfect balance. The sheer flavours taste sculpted rather than chiselled, flowing from red fruit to violet to dried damson to wild cherry before receding toward persistent roasted game and mushroom finish. Score: 93

The proprietor of Maison Edouard Delaunay, Laurent Delaunay, explains his focus on sustainability like this:

“As a fifth-generation Burgundian, I am laying the groundwork for my daughter to become the sixth generation, and it is clear that we cannot afford to have short-term thinking. We must plan for the long-term and prioritize sustainable practices, so that future generations can inherit a healthy and thriving environment.”

We can all lift a glass to that sentiment.

Sustainable Winemaking Ontario Certified wineries

1. 13th Street Winery, St. Catharines

A boutique winery that makes outstanding Chardonnay and sparkling wine among other varieties by a Chablis-born and raised winemaker, Jean-Pierre Colas. If you go, you must pop into the bakery for the butter tarts. To die for.

2. Andrew Peller Limited, Grimsby

Andrew Peller Limited owns a number of large Ontario wine brands. Names to know include Thirty Bench Wine Makers and Trius Winery, which are among the best in the portfolio.

3. Cave Spring Vineyard, Beamsville

Cave Spring Vineyard winery makes exciting Riesling, sparkling wine and dessert wine among other styles. Their charming tasting room on Main Street in Jordan, Ont., is worth a visit.

4. Chateau des Charmes, Niagara-on-the-Lake

With a castle-like winery that sits amid the estate’s sprawling 38 hectares of vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Château des Charmes is a grand site. The winery’s Gamay Noir Droit VQA St. David’s Bench is a must-taste.

5. Ferox Estate Winery, Niagara-on-the-Lake

Ferox Estate Winery is a relative newcomer to Niagara’s wine industry with the first harvest taking place in 2015. They’re small, artisanal and sustainably minded — and can make very good bubbly.

6. Flat Rock Cellars, Jordan

Flat Rock Cellars is known for its state-of-the-art winemaking facility and ambitious, terroir-driven wines. The Rieslings can be spectacular.

7. Henry of Pelham Family Estate, St. Catharines

Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery is run by the Speck brothers, who founded the winery with their parents back in 1984. Today, it’s a force for the region, making reliable wines at every price point.

8. Hidden Bench Estate Winery, Beamsville

Located in the heart of the picturesque Bench in Beamsville, Hidden Bench Estate Winery is known for its ultra-premium expressions of terroir-driven Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

9. Icellars Estate Winery, Niagara-on-the-Lake

This small, family-run winery started farming all 24 hectares of its vineyards organically in 2020 and aims to be the first net energy zero winery in Canada. It clearly puts the planet first.

10. Leaning Post Wines, Stoney Creek

Leaning Post Wines is owned and run by a husband-wife team. Together they make and market enthralling wines worth your attention.

11. Malivoire Wine Company, Beamsville

Malivoire Wine Company is known, among other things, for its small-lot, ageworthy Gamay. The winery’s pale, dry Rosé Moira is excellent.

12. Niagara College Teaching Winery, Niagara-on-the-Lake

Niagara College Teaching Winery is Canada’s first commercial teaching winery located at the Niagara-on-the-Lake campus of Niagara College. They produce some award-winning wines.

13. Oxley Estate Winery, Harrow

Located in the Lake Erie North Shore appellation of Ontario, this winery is a pretty place to perch if you’re out that direction. Stop in for a glass of chilled white and a plate of excellent fish and chips.

14. Pelee Island Winery, Pelee Island

Pelee Island Winery has two locations: Kingsville Winery on the mainland and the Pelee Island Winery Pavilion on the island itself. Both places are worth visiting. Pelee Island Winery is Canada’s southernmost estate winery with a wine-growing history going back more than 170 years.

15. Peller Estates, Niagara-on-the-Lake

Peller Estates offers polished experiences for visitors at its Niagara-on-the-Lake property. If you go, don’t forget to visit the 10Below Icewine Lounge constructed out of 13,607 kilos of ice where you can sample some icewine.

16. Reif Estate Winery, Niagara-on-the-Lake

Established in 1982 by the Reif Family, this winery makes a range of wines. The bottle this critic keeps finding pleasure in is its Vidal Icewine.

17. Riverview Cellars, Niagara-on-the-Lake

Riverview Cellars is a family estate that prides itself on small-batch wines. The winery officially opened in 2000 in Niagara and became SWO certified in 2022.

18. Southbrook Vineyards, Niagara-on-the-Lake

Southbrook Vineyards is a beautiful and serene winery to visit that practises sustainable grape-growing and winemaking as well as organic and biodynamic viticulture and vinification.

19. Stratus Vineyards, Niagara-on-the-Lake

Stratus Vineyards is a chic, stylish place to visit. The wines tend to be upmarket and the winery focuses on artisanal batches of terroir-driven wine. Certainly some gems in the portfolio.

20. Strewn Winery, Niagara-on-the-Lake

Strewn makes a range of wines including its ever popular $16 barrel-aged Chardonnay that sells like hotcakes at the LCBO.

21. Thirty Bench Wine Makers, Beamsville

Thirty Bench Wine Makers tends to focus on premium wines. Its Small Lot Steel Post Riesling is consistently very good. Despite being owned by Andrew Peller Limited, it has its own winery that welcomes visitors.

22. Trius, Niagara-on-the-Lake

Trius, owned by Andrew Peller Limited, is a beautiful winery to visit in Niagara. Its NV Brut Rosé is always excellent and widely available at the LCBO.

23. Vineland Estates Winery, Vineland

Not only is this winery sustainable, but the restaurant on site is also fabulous. Stop in to sample some fine cuisine with a beautiful view overlooking the sustainably farmed vineyards.

24. Wayne Gretzky Estates, Niagara-on-the-Lake

Partly owned by the Great One himself, Wayne Gretzky Estates Winery makes a dessert wine called No. 99 Vidal Icewine that’s delicious. Swirl some into your glass after dinner to enjoy with cheese for a delicious finish to the meal.

SHARE: